Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts

Saturday, 27 February 2016

Free patterns

I'm intentioned to publish a series of free patterns with the theme "flowers and leaves" every 1 or 2 weeks. The patterns include a lot of techniques, from pearl tatting to cluny leaves, nearly all with encapsulation of treads. The first series will be flat, later there will follow the threedimensional. Here is the first one: Inside the stem there is a third thread, which I will call "guide thread" (in the pattern in black),and the ds, which encapsulate the guide thread and the thread of the opposite color, are not flipped. This gives the work a nice stiffness. Try it out and enjoy!

Thursday, 15 April 2010

Difficulties of earring

Dear tattingfriends,
I'm so pleased that you all try to make the earring. Step 15 and 16 are difficult. But if you have problems, please send me a scan of both sides of your earring, tell me the number of the step where you had the difficulties and I will try to explain what went wrong.
When you arrive at Step 15, you are working on the back side. The ds of your light color ring show in the same direction of your previous dark chain with the bead. Without changing any direction take the middle ring of the center flower over and make first join there. The chain with the bead is on your left. Work the next ds, take the bead under your ring and join there, as you see on Step 16. Work the last 9 ds of first half ring and join to first picot of dark chain (Step 17), then work the ds of second half. Close and only now put your ring in the right position over the bead (Step 18).

Wednesday, 14 April 2010

Fourth steps of earring

Step 19: Work now the second ring in the same way as described at Step 4.


Step 20: Work the third ring 10+10, joining through the other rings to the picot of your underlying chain near the 6mm bead.




Step 21: Without reversing work a chain as described in Step 13. Join to last picot of center flower.
Now we have only to hide our thread ends on the back.






Et voila, our earring is ready!

Third steps of earring

Step 12: Without reversing your work change color with shoelace knot and make a chain of 12 ds. Join to last free picot on you dark chain near the 6mm bead.

Step 13: Change direction, change color with shoelace knot and work a chain of 3ds taking a seed bead from your working thread between: 3 b 3 b 3 b 3 b 3 b 3 (5 beads). Join to picot of last ring of dark center flower.

Step 14: Change color with shoelace knot and work a chain with a 6mm bead as described in Step 2



Step 15: Now comes the most difficult part! Start your ring with 7 ds. Look carefully on the image and join to picot on top of second leaf of dark center flower, leaving the dark chain with the bead behind.



Step 16: work other 4 ds and join to the 6mm bead on your chain.




Step 17: Work the next 9ds on your ring and join to first picot of the dark chain in the same way as described in Step 4.





Step 18: Work the last 20 ds of the ring and close. Put the ring in the right position on the underlying chain.

Tomorrow we will finish!

Monday, 12 April 2010

Second steps of earring

With the same thread start a second ring with 16ds. Join to second picot of the underlying chain going through your previous ring (image step 6).

Then work the other part of the ring and close (image step 7)

Take your work to the other side and load the 4mm bead on the thread of the other color (image step 8).

Reduce gap and with the same thread start a ring: 3ds, join to picot of first big ring, 3-3-3 and close (image step 9).

Work other two rings: 3+3-3-3, and 3+3-6 (image step 10)

Lock join to the 4mm bead (image step 11)

first steps of earring



Step 1: Load the 10 seed beads on the thread you want to be outside, knot the two threads together and start with ring 14 ds.
Continue with chain 1-4-4-1. On the core thread load the 6mm bead and hold it with a thick paper clip or other mean.



Step 2: Reduce gap between bead and chain, work the next 7ds.



Step 3: Take the thread of the other color and work a ring: 3-8, join to the thread of the bead, and work other 9ds and join to first picot of previous chain.



Step 4: Work the next 20ds.





Step 5: Close the ring and put the chain with the bead behind the ring.

Friday, 9 April 2010

earrings to make together


This is the lighter version of the earring, that we will work together. You need 6 cord thread size 20 (or 30, if you work very loose) in two colors, 4 6mm beads, 2 4mm beads, 20 seed beads, findings for earrings. We will start next Monday.

Thursday, 5 March 2009

Images of my works

The shuttle motif was intended for a collar, but first it got an edging.

Then I bought this variegated wool in Berkeley and made the first collar, but for an adult collar it rounded too much.

So I made a second version with a different motif in the upper middle, so that it rounds right.

After this thought it would get also a nice doily and made the first version. but the I thougt it could lighted a bit up and made bigger on top of the squares. First i put daisy flowers on top, but then I thought this would have too much limited the persons able to follow the TIAS.


For the beginner class in Berkeley I made this bookmark which is "the key to tatting".

Then I made also e second bookmark with advanced techniques, but I lost it, so I show you here the design:

I designed also this other edging with advanced techniques, but we did not do this. Though some of them also learned how to make a cluny leaf.

Wednesday, 25 February 2009

Are you ready for the 3rd TIAS day?

First of all I have to tell you, that I was wrong with the "down join". Riet was so kind and send me an explanation, which you can read here:


The explanation of our TIAS is getting more complicated now, but there are some of you, who are very good at understanding written descriptions. But one thing is important to say: I always let the color go the way it is presenting.
23) go down on the side of your shuttle motif with DC chain 11, LJ to the lower chain at the point on the bottom of the smal DC ring of the inner flower.
24) continue DC chain 6-6, DC ring 3-3, DC chain 6-6, LJ to p of smal LC ring.
25) work up on the other side: DC chain 6+6 (join to opposite chain), DC ring 3+3 (join to opposite DC 3-3 ring), DC chain 6-6
26) LC ring 12-12
27) continue the DC chain 6+6 (join to opposite chain), DC ring 3+3 (join to the other 2 small rings), chain 6
28) LC ring 12+12 (join to opposite 12-12 LC ring), LC ring 12-12
29) DC chain 6, DC ring 3+3 (join to the other 3 small rings), 6+6 (join to opposite chain), join at the starting point of step 24), LC ring 12+12 (join to opposite 12-12LC ring)
From step 24 to step 29 you have to get a square, which is less high at the top,surrounded on the top by 4 LC rings, and with a small 4 leaf flower in the center.
I wish you to enjoy!

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Let's start

Let' start to work the first 12 steps, is that too much?

material needed: thread size 20 in 2 colors (if you use a smaller thread size, LPs have to be smaller)
2 shuttles
a picot gauge (can be cut out of a plastic card)
abbreviations:
LP = long picot 1/4 inch measured vertically, or I would say: folded
Lp = long picot 3/8 inch measured horizontally, or not folded (finished it is a bit smaller than the 1/4 inch picot)
DC = dark color
LC = light color
1) Start with ring clover: DC 6-3-3, 3+3-3-3, 3+3-6
2) LC chain 10
3) DC SCMR 5, ring over SCMR 4 LP 7 Lp 7 LP 4, second half of SCMR 5
4) LC chain 10
5) DC ring 4 + 7 + 7 LP 4 (joining to previous big ring on LP and Lp)
6) LC chain 10
7) DC ring 4 + 7 + 7 LP 4 (joining to previous big ring on LP and Lp)
8) LC ring 5-5 (on the opposite side)
9) LC chain 10
10) DC SCMR 5, ring over SCMR 4 + 7 + 7 LP 4, second half of SCMR 5
11) LC chain 10
12) LC ring clover 6-3-3, 3+6-4-6-3, 3+3-6

Friday, 25 July 2008

japanese hexagon number two


This is another hexagon I designed for the lessons in Japan. It is not so effectful as the hexagon number one, but a good exercise for Maltese ring and Selfclosingmockring. Perhaps at the joinings of the round doily I could join another round to give it a better shape. I will try that out.


Perhaps this simple second round would better it. In this way I obtain a heart shape with a flower inside, which joins as a triangle.

Wednesday, 23 July 2008

diagram


Here is the pattern for the hexagon: for those of you, who are not able to make a cluny leaf, you can substitute it with a chain of 9 or 10 ds.

Wednesday, 2 January 2008

pattern for the easy earrings


EASY ONE SHUTTLE EARRINGS – DESIGN FROM IRIS NIEBACH COPYRIGHT 2008

Material: 1 shuttle
2,5m x 2 of thread size 30
30 x 2 seed beads A for the ring tops
46 x 2 seed beads B size 11 for the inner joins
1 x 2 beads in drop form with longitudinal whole (but you can use, what you want, because they will be put in at the end)
earring findings
For loading the beads on the picots and passing thread through the beads use a piece of very thin wire plied and cut in the length of about a sewing needle.

Attention: when the bead size is given, it is important for the shape, where the size is not given, the seed beads can be bigger or smaller, because you put the quantity which fixes on the long picots. You can recognize 11 size beads, putting them on a thread and measuring 1 inch – there have to fit about 17 beads on a length of 1 inch!
Picot a: ¼ inch
Picot b: 5/16 inch (5/8 inch on the picot gauge taken flat)
Picot c: ½ inch

Wind 2,5 m of thread on your shuttle, load the thread with
3B-4A-5B-4A-3B-4A-3B-4A-5B-4A-3B-1A and start working
1) Start with the top ring. Leave a piece of thread (don’t hide the thread ends, they are needed for finishing) and take 3 beads on your ring and work 3ds- picot a-2ds, work picot c and 1ds, load 1A from your shuttle thread and work another ds, then load 6 beads (or the quantity that fixes)on picot c and join to that picot making 2ds-picot a–3ds and close. You must always have a total of 12 ds on your rings.
2) Put 3B between and start the next ring: take 3A on your ring thread on your hand, start with 3ds, join to picot of previous ring, loaded with 3B and make next 3 ds, then take the 3A and 1A from your shuttle and form the rhombus on top of the ring. Continue with 3ds-picot b -3ds and close.
3) Put 5B between and continue next ring: take 3A on your ring thread on your hand, start with 3ds, join to picot of previous ring, loaded with 5B and make next 3 ds, then take the 3A and 1A from your shuttle and form the rhombus on top of the ring. Continue with 3ds- picot a-3ds and close.
4) Put 3B on your thread and make the next ring: take 3A on your ring thread on your hand, start with 3ds, join to picot of previous ring, loaded with 3B and make next 3 ds, then take the 3A and 1A from your shuttle and form the rhombus on top of the ring. Continue with 3ds-picot a -3ds and close.
5) Put 3B on your thread and make the next ring: take 3A on your ring thread on your hand, start with 3ds, join to picot of previous ring, loaded with 3B and make next 3 ds, then take the 3A and 1A from your shuttle and form the rhombus on top of the ring. Continue with 3ds-picot b -3ds and close.
6) Put 5B between and continue next ring: take 3A on your ring thread on your hand, start with 3ds, join to picot of previous ring, loaded with 5B and make next 3 ds, then take the 3A and 1A from your shuttle and form the rhombus on top of the ring. Continue with 3ds- join to picot of first ring, loaded with 3B-3ds and close.
7) Put the last 3B between and knot the two thread ends together. Now load on the thread ends the beads you want to put in the middle. You can use hanging beads and let them hanging loose and hiding the thread ends on back of the top ring or you can use beads with transversal whole and fix them on the opposite side, putting the thread ends through the 3A beads of both sides and hiding them on the back of the adjacent rings.